Lace fabric



0. GOODLEY LACE FABRIC Filed Nov. 26, 1934 INVENTOR 'uuliuili ll'zi-lATTORNEY Patented Dec. 17, 1935 PATENT OFFICE LACE FABRIC CharlesGocdley, Kingston, N. Y., assignor to United States Lace Curtain Mills,Kingston, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application November 26,1934, Serial No. 754,777

3 Claims.

The object of the present invention is to provide a new lace fabricproduced on a Nottingham curtain machine and usually comprising a warp,spool threads and bobbin tie threads, either single or double, and thenovel ground of the fabric being produced by dropped ties of the singleor double spool threads which are thrown in either direction between twopillars or pillared singly or both together in such manner as to form along or short cross, a diamond, a hexagon, or other fancy type of netwhich can be put in at will on any section of the fabric.

. It has long been known in the art to employ spool threads for clothingeffects by moving spool threads from one pillar to the leftand backagain to the right one or more gaits and also to manipulate the spoolthreads to produce open work effects by pillaring the spool threads atdesired points. My invention is differentiated by the primary fact thatin my lace fabric, spool threads not only pillar in the ordinary way,but pillar along with both the spool and warp thread on the immediateleft when desired, and float and tie in to form a fancy ground with orwithout beam threads.

The invention will be described with reference to the accompanyingdrawing, in which:-

Fig. 1 diagrammatically illustrates the arrangement of warp and spoolthreads in a simple form of the lace fabric.

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic view showing the arrangement of warp and spoolthreads in a more complex pattern than that illustrated in the precedingfigure. 1 r

Fig; 3 is a front elevation of structural members employed in themanufacture of lace fabric showing interceptors, interceptor guides andbobbins with their carriages. r

Fig. 4 is a sectional side elevation of the elements shown in Fig. 3,the bobbin carriage being in front motion and an interceptor shownwithdrawn.

Fig. 5 is a schematic view showing threads in the formation of a diamondnet.

Referring to Figs. 3 and 4, it will be noted that in the manufacture ofmy new lace fabric, a Nottingham lace machine is employed, the meansembodying a spool bar I, a warp bar 2 and, if desired, a beam bar 3. Ajacquard controlled interceptor 4 is provided for each spool thread a.At 5 I have shown one of the bobbins in its carriage 6, the bobbinthread being shown at c.

In the drawing, the warp thread is indicated at b.

In the operation of the machine to form my lace fabric, the warp barmoves one gait to the left on the first or back motion and one gait tothe right on the second or front motion. The spool bar I. executes thefollowing movement:

On the back motion it moves-one full gait to the left, pauses while theinterceptors make their selection, and then moves another gait to theleft. On the front motion the spool bar moves one gait to the right,pauses for selection by the interceptors, then moves an additional gaitto the right. The selection by the interceptors, which are in actioneach motion, is effected by means of either two jacquards or onejacquard operating at double speed.

The formation of ordinary work in the lace, as, for example, for theclothing effect, Fig. 2, may be efiected by employing the interceptorsin a known and usual manner, i. e., by holding the interceptors out ofaction on both motions. In. the

formation of open work, ordinary pillaringof the spool threads issecured by moving the interceptors into the threads every alternatemotion, that is tosay, when the carriages are in the back comb bar 8.The thick or double pillaring shown at lllx, Fig. 2, is secured bymoving interceptor A into the threads. On No. 1 motion when carriagesare at back, withdrawing it on No. 2 motion when carriages are at front.Interceptor B works in an opposite manner, i. e., it is withdrawn whenon No. 1 motion and released on No. 2 motion.

-It is the floating of spool threads preliminary to Motion numberInterceptor A Interceptor B Withdrawn.

Released.

Released do Withdrawn. Reledased Released.

The above movements of the interceptors are repeated throughout themachine where an equally sided diamond net is desired. The number ofmotions on which the interceptors are released simultaneously as in 3,4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 determines the length of thediamond from N to 0. It will therefore be noted that each spool threadbetween the points N and P Fig. 5, has been floated, i. e., held againstpillaring or'tie, by the action of the interceptors. 5 In other words,between the points N and P, Fig. 5, the interceptors have held the spoolthreads from being tied during the path of action of the bobbins; and atthe point P spool thread 'a has been tied to its own pillar, and spoolthread a 10 has been tied to the pillar at the left of its own pillar.Between the points P and both spool threads have been floated until theyreach the point of tie at O on the pillar normally that for spool threada 15 In Fig. 1, I have shown successive vertical rows of diamond figures9 formed exactly in the manner specified with respect to the diamond ofFig. 5, but the number of motions of the interceptors have been reducedin accordance with the re- 30 duced length of the diamond between N and0 (refer to Fig. The intermediate rows of hexagon Figures are formed bypillaring the spool threads a and a from the point 0 a distanceequivalent to the desired length of the vertical bar forming a part ofthe hexagon in each case. This double pillaring is effected, asexplained above.

Referring to the cross formation at Him, (see Fig. 2), this is effectedby pillaring the spool threads a, a from the final tie below the clothing 1 for a length equivalent to the desired upper part of the cross,thence throwing the said spool threads in opposite directions betweentwo pillars a desired number of times to form the transa verse bar ofthe cross figure, and thence ,pillaring the two threads to form thelower longitudinal part of the cross. When the auxiliary or beam bar 3.is employed, it may be actuated by a suitable cam to throw beam threadsaccording .to

q; usual practice for strengthening the fabric, as,

for example, by producing a square ground. This will be understood bythose skilled in the art and does not require illustration in thedrawing.

Having described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure byLetters Patent, is as follows: 5

1. A lace fabric made upon a curtain lace machine with a single jaquardand two bars, one spool and one warp bar, the fabric comprising a seriesof pillars, each formed of a warp thread,

a spool thread employed as a filling, and a bobbin 10 thread, the spoolthreads being traversed and tied by bobbin threads to the warp, the samespool thread also being pillared, singly and doubly, at spaced points ofthe fabric and the same spool thread also being floated to form droppedties at predetermined points.

2. A lace fabric made upon a curtain lace machine with a single jaquardand two bars, one spool and. one warp bar, the fabric comprising aseries of pillars, each formed of a warp thread, a '20 spool threademployed as a filling, and a bobbin thread, the spool thread beingtraversed to form clothing at areas of the fabric, the same spool threadbeing pillared in the usual manner, and the spool thread being doublypillared, and the spool thread being floated from points of tie to lowerpredetermined points on adjacent pillars.

3. A lace fabric made upon a curtain lace machine with a single jaquardand two bars, one spool and one warp bar, the fabric comprising a seriesof pillars, each formed of a warp thread,

a spool thread employed as a filling, and a bobbin thread, the spoolthread being traversed to form clothing at areas of the fabric, thespool thread being pillared in the usual manner and the spool threadbeing doubly pillared, the spool thread at each doublepillar being tiedthereto by the bobbin thread and carried to the warp thread on theimmediate left of its normal warp thread.

CHARLES GOODLEY.

